Types of Axes: Complete Guide to Choosing the Perfect One

Have you ever stopped to think about one of humanity's oldest and most fascinating tools? axes are not just a piece of metal with a handle; They are ancestral companions that have shaped our history, from prehistory to the most modern survival and sports applications. Whether for splitting firewood, building a wilderness shelter, or even as a rescue tool, choosing the right ax is crucial.

In this article, we will guide you through the exciting world of axes: their anatomy, their evolution, the various types that exist and how to choose the perfect one for each task. Get ready to sharpen your knowledge and immerse yourself in this universe of edge and tradition. Let's get started!

1. The Anatomy of an Axe: Meet Your Mate

Although it may seem simple, an ax is made up of several key parts that determine its function and performance. Knowing them is not only interesting, it is also much safer!

Head (or Head)

It is the cutting part, generally in the shape of a “V” and made of steel. It consists of:

• Eye: The top of the head, where the handle is inserted and held.
• Cylinder head:The rear of the head.
• Ltongue: Widens the contact surface between the ax and the handle, ensuring a firm grip.
• Edge: The cutting edge of the axe.
• Cheek: Each side of the head.
• Heel (or Heel of the drill bit): The bottom of the cutting edge.
• Tip (or Blade Tip/Bit): The top of the cutting edge. Some models have double edge (double bit).
• Beard: The most concave part located at the bottom of the blade, near the handle, and can be shallow, medium, or deep.

Handle

The part where the ax is held.

• Handle: The thicker end of the handle, which ensures a greater grip and prevents the ax from slipping from the hand.
• Lanyard Hole: This is often reinforced on the pommel, although it is safer to use it alone to hang the axe. Tying a rope to the ax can be dangerous.
• Handle body: The middle part of the handle.
• Throat of handle: The part just above the knob.

2. The Fascinating Evolution of the Axe: From Stone to Steel

The ax is a tool that has accompanied humanity throughout almost all of its history. Since its inception, it has been indispensable for hunting, obtaining food, building and, of course, as a weapon.

Stone Age

The first known ax was used by Homo ergaster between 1.9 and 1.4 million years ago. They were hand axes, simple sharpened stones without handles. Our ancestors, the Homo sapiens, made the most important modification: they discovered that by tying the head to a handle, the impact force increased significantly, making it more powerful and versatile. Their origin must be placed in prehistory, from the Neolithic, when they were used as weapons for hunting and war.

Age of Metals

With the advent of metallurgy, axes became stronger and lighter, could take virtually any shape, and be mass produced. Forged metal axes already included the hole for the handle. They became primary hand-to-hand combat weapons for several European peoples, such as the Celts.

Middle Ages

Battle axes gained great prominence in European conflicts. The Vikings, for example, developed axes with long handles and sharp blades for attacking from a distance. Although fearsome in attack, they had limitations in defense compared to swords. Later the Vikings, Normans, Amerindians, English, French, etc., also used it as a weapon of war.

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With firearms, the military importance of axes decreased. Beginning in the 19th century, they were used almost exclusively as tools by lumberjacks and farmers. Today, they are essential for firefighters and first responders, and part of the equipment of adventurers in camping, trekking and mountaineering. In addition, they have become tools for leisure and sports, such as ax throwing.

3. For Every Task its Perfect Axe! Types and Uses

The key to choosing the right ax is knowing what you want to do with it: chop, split, throw, carve, or even clear a path. The size, weight, shape and material of the head and handle are the characteristics that differentiate them. Currently the ax is still used for cutting firewood, to fell trees, but it is also widely used for adventure sports, and outdoors such as hunting.

3.1. Felling Axes

Designed specifically to fell trees and remove their roots. They require the use of both hands to take advantage of their balance and cutting power.

• Features: Sharp, thin blade to penetrate wood with precision. Long handle (50-65 cm or 60-80 cm), providing leverage and control. Ideal weight between 1 and 2.5 kg. The cutting edge usually has an angle of 20-25 degrees. Some models have a shim driving surface.
• Materials: Carbon steel or high quality forged steel blades are preferable for power and precision. The handles are usually made of American walnut (very strong and flexible, absorbs impacts) or ash (firm, elastic, cushions impacts).
• Examples: Hultafors Åby, Fiskars X24, Gränsfors Bruk American Felling Axe.

3.2. Splitting Axes / Mauls

Created expressly to cut wood along the grain or split logs, ideal for producing firewood.

• Features: Solid wedge-shaped head. The first part of the head is thin to facilitate entry into the wood, then it thickens to split it. The cutting edge is straight, robust and beveled on both sides, but does not need to be extremely sharp (25-30 degree angle). They are used with two hands due to their weight.
• Weight and Length: They usually weigh between 1.25 and 3.5 kg, and the length of the handle varies from 40 to 90 cm.
• Clinching Hammer (Maul): An especially heavy version of the splitting axe, which may include a flat hammer-like back for striking metal wedges without damaging the axe.
• Materials: Long handles made of American walnut or ash wood for their shock absorption capacity, or also fiberglass.
• Examples: Hultafors KLY, Fiskars X28, Gränsfors Bruk Large Splitting Axe.

3.3. Hand or Small Axes (Hand Axes / Hatchets)

Compact, light and versatile instruments that can be operated with one hand. They are ideal for small tasks such as making firewood (chips), cutting small branches, or in camping and hiking activities.

• Features: Portable and functional. Very sharp blade for removing a lot of material and for precise cutting tasks. Designed to be multipurpose.
• Weight and Length: They usually weigh between 600 grams and 1.5 kg, and measure between 45 and 65 cm.
• Applications: Essential for campers, bushcraft enthusiasts and survivalists. They are used to cut firewood for campfires, cut feather sticks to light fires, or even build shelters.
• Advantages: They are a safer, quieter, easier to transport and lower maintenance alternative to a chainsaw for cutting small logs.
• Examples: Hultafors H 006 SV, Fiskars X13, Gränsfors Bruk Wildlife Hatchet, Njord Malin.

3.4. Carpentry Axes / Carving Axes

Smaller than felling axes and designed for carving and shaping wood.

• Features: Narrow, curved blade for extreme control and precision. A good grip is essential for precision. The quality of the steel is important to maintain its edge and prevent rust. Some woodworking axes have a single bevel (single-side sharpening) for cleaner cuts.
• Adze: A tool similar but not the same as an axe, used for smoothing and carving wood, or digging in the ground.

3.5. Double-Bit Axes

Distinctive for having two symmetrical edges, one for specific work and the other for general use.

• Features: One of the edges is usually sharper for felling, and the other, wedge-shaped, for splitting or hitting difficult knots. Since they have two heads, they are heavier and may require more force to use, especially if the handle is short.
• Applications: Frequently used for felling trees, cutting and splitting wood. Their symmetry also makes them popular in medieval fantasy and sports.
• Considerations: It is important to be clear about the purpose of each edge before using it. The head material and its design are crucial for durability.
• History: The “labrys”, a double-edged axe, was a symbol of authority in the Minoan civilization.

3.6. Throwing Axes / Tomahawks

Originally used by Native Americans and European colonialists for hand-to-hand combat and self-defense. Nowadays, they are very popular in ax throwing competitions.

• Features: Lightweight and compact, designed for precision casting. They often have a straight handle without a knob.
• Weight and Length: They usually weigh around 1 kg and measure between 30 and 40 cm.
• History: Some had a sharper side for work and a blunter side for knotting. The handle pommel was sometimes reinforced with a lanyard hole, although tying a rope to the ax was discouraged for safety.

3.7. Tactical Axes

Modern and multifunctional design, they are very useful tools for special forces such as SWAT, security forces, emergency services and survival enthusiasts.

• Features: Light, compact and robust, made with very high resistance materials. They offer versatility with additional features such as indentations that serve as a wrench, ruler or hammer. Its design is adaptable to specific tasks and urban environments.
• Functions: Ideal for cutting firewood, opening roads, self-defense, and survival tasks. And it also has a tactical and military use, since security forces such as firefighters, rangers and infantry use it as an excellent auxiliary work element.

3.8. Firefighter Axes

Essential tools for firefighters and first responders, designed to break down doors and obstacles in emergency situations.

• Features: A heavy head with a thin blade for breaking through doors, and on the opposite side, a pickaxe for disposing of debris. They are usually intensely colored to be easily visible. Handles are often made of Nuplaglas® fiberglass, which is highly temperature resistant, lasts “forever” and has an interlocking plastic core that makes them lightweight while maintaining the strength of steel.
• Crush Axe: Specific axes used in airplanes to break through doors in emergency situations.

3.9. Brush Axes

Specialized tools for clearing dense vegetation and undergrowth.

• Features: They usually have long handles and blades that can be straight or curved, with a sharp edge.

3.10. Hybrid Axes

Some manufacturers such as Krumpholz offer hybrid axes that combine features of forestry and splitting axes.

• Features: They are shaped like a Viking axe, with a sharper cutting angle that allows for very high sharpening, and the head thickens considerably at the back for a good cleaving effect. They are ideal both for splitting firewood and for felling and delimbing.

4. Manufacturing Materials: The Essence of the Ax

The quality of an ax depends largely on the materials used in both its head and its handle.

4.1. Head (Blade)

• Carbon Steel: Excellent edge retention and easy to sharpen. Common on heavy duty axes.
• Forged Steel: A type of carbon steel processed for greater strength.
• Stainless Steel: Corrosion resistant and less brittle.
• Tool Steel (5160 or 1095): Hard and strong.
• Damascus Steel: Aesthetically unique, with welded layers, highly sought after by collectors.

4.2. Handle

Wood:

• Hickory: Most used and preferred for ax handles due to its incredible strength, flexibility, elasticity and ability to absorb impacts. Hickory handles rarely break completely, offering a safety advantage over ash handles.
• Ash: Firm and elastic, it also absorbs impacts. More economical than American walnut.
• Beech: Another traditional wood that offers good grip and absorbs vibrations.

Other Materials:

• Plastic/Fiberglass: They are a great option today, they do not require as much maintenance and are more forgiving of failures. They offer high resistance, ideal for rough use.
• Modern Composites: Light, durable and with an ergonomic feel.

5. Edge Types: Cutting with Precision

The shape of the ax edge directly influences its performance and use:

• Convex edge: Ideal for splitting wood, resists impacts well.
• Flat Edge: Precise, widely used in carpentry.
• Hollow Edge: Extremely sharp, but less resistant to shocks.
• Double Bevel: Symmetrical, for straight cuts.
• Single Bevel: Single-sided edge, offers greater control for roughing.

6. The Art of Forging: From Anvil to Ax

Making axes, especially high-quality ones, is an artisanal process that requires mastery.

Traditional Process

To forge a 2.5 kg axe, you start with a piece of iron that thins in the center to form the “begia” (the eye of the axe). Then, another piece of iron, the “betegarri”, is introduced and joined by welding at 1300 °C, striking quickly and strongly. For good welding, river sand is used as a protective layer to keep the surfaces clean. Subsequently, a piece of steel (“galtzairu”) is welded to form the edge. The material is stretched and thinned to obtain the tapered shape. Finally, the eye is shaped with a piece of iron (“maneala”) and the ax is hardened by repeatedly tempering it in warm water.

Finish

After forging, irregularities are removed in a sharpening workshop, using a wet, rotating sandstone. Sharpening the edge is done by pressing the ax on the stone. Finally, the surfaces near the cut are polished.

Production Time

The forging of an average ax could require approximately one and a half hours of work by two men, and the grinding and sharpening, half an hour by one man.

7. Care and Safety: Keep your Ax Spotless and Safe

A well-maintained ax is a safe and efficient ax.

• Cleaning: Removes resin, dirt and moisture after each use.
• Regular sharpening: Essential for optimal performance, especially in forestry axes. It can be done with sharpening stones or files.
• Storage: Store your ax in a cool, dry place, ideally with a blade guard to prevent rust. Apply oil (such as linseed oil for the handle and mineral oil for the blade) to protect it.
• Loose Handle: Check shims and reglue if necessary.
• Personal Safety: Always wear safety clothing (cut-proof pants, helmet, safety shoes, glasses) to protect yourself from serious injuries. Make sure you have a stable posture when working. Never work with the handle wet or in the rain.

8. Which Ax to Choose According to Your Needs?

Choosing the perfect ax comes down to the main purpose. Here's a quick guide:

• Large diameter tree felling: Felling ax or double-edged axe.
• Split firewood or large logs: Splitting ax or splitting hammer.
• Camping, bushcraft or small division tasks: Hand ax (hatchet).
• Carving or shaping wood: Carpentry or carving axe.
• Throwing sport: Throwing axe (tomahawk).
• Survival or use by special forces: Tactical axe.
• Rescue and emergency: Fireman's axe.
• Clearing dense vegetation: Brush axe.
• Various felling and splitting jobs: Hybrid axe.

For an accurate choice, consider the size and weight that is right for you, as a heavier ax offers more power, but is harder to control.

9. How to Distinguish a Quality Ax

When investing in an axe, look for the following features to ensure you are purchasing a durable and effective tool:

• Balance: Perfect between blade and handle.
• Forging: No bubbles or defects.
• Handle: Knotless and well attached to the head.
• Edge: Should cut paper effortlessly.
• Brands: On artisan axes, look for the marks of the blacksmith or craftsman.

Brands such as Gränsfors Bruk (Sweden), Hultafors (Sweden), Council Tool (USA) and Estwing (USA) are recognized for their quality and traditional forging.

axes are much more than just tools; They are an extension of the human hand, witnesses of our history and, today, objects of worship and inseparable companions in countless adventures. Its evolution over millions of years and its adaptation to the changing needs of humanity demonstrate its versatility and continued relevance.

We hope that this comprehensive guide has given you a clear overview of the different types of axes and helped you choose the perfect companion for your own needs, whether for field work, sports, survival or simply to admire their artistry and beauty.

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